YouTube Transcript:
How to Paint the new WARP SPIDERS! | Eldar Aspect Warriors | Aeldari 40k
Skip watching entire videos - get the full transcript, search for keywords, and copy with one click.
Share:
Video Transcript
hey everyone in this video I'm going to
show you how to paint warp spiders in a
nice simple and effective way so you can
quick as a huge Eldar fan I was very
excited with all the new aspect Warriors
coming out I've painted a lot of them
already and so I was really happy to get
more to paint to add to my Army I really
didn't know which ones to go for and and
what to start with I'll paint everything
eventually and you'll see that in videos
no doubt I really like fire dragons but
I already painted these about a year ago
actually these Little Cuties the metal
ones and I thought well let's just do
something different I really like the
swooping Hawks as well but I think
they're going to take quite a long time
and I'd like to do a pretty nice job of
those so I thought let's go for some
warp spiders let's get those guys
done in this video I'm going to show you
how to paint them if you have an
airbrush and also if you don't have one
if you're painting with a brush I really
recommend graer primer the pale gray
having a light color to start with is
going to help you so much and personally
I wouldn't do them from black if you're
airbrushing then like me you could do
the body in black and the helmets in the
this gray I've got here I'm going to
start by spraying some Tamia flat white
over my gray if you're using a brush
then you can hand paint some white
straight over the the gray sear and it's
going to be quite easy to highlight
straight from that as there's not too
much difference between gray sear and some
some
white I'm slowly building up the white
spraying from One Direction just to
leave a little bit of the gray on the
side for some shading and if you're
brushing that just highlight the upper
areas facing the
light with the white still in the cup I
start spraying the bodies as a pre
highlight so again if you're brushing on
then I would just use the gray primer
the main aim for this is to give a nice
light base coat so we can get a nice
bright red I really don't enjoy painting
red from black I can do it but if we're
going to have red as the main color I'll
always start with a pale base coat and
the black and white is good because any
parts that you want really dark you can
leave those obviously by not spraying
them with the white
I'll be using the cult of paint Reds but
I'll put the equivalent from Citadel so
you can go ahead and paint these now
these paints are close to coming out
we're just really trying to finish off
the last few bits but they have to be
right the main thing the main difference
with these paints is the color the most
important thing for me was getting rich
beautiful colors and the difference is
subtle but I just wanted to show you you
know next to miston Red you can see the
miston is just a little grayer and not
as rich and for me I want the richest
most beautiful red I can so when
designing these colors that was the
priority really making them really
smooth and a really nice
color just to compare as well I'll
quickly show you rhox hiy which was my
most used paint ever so it was really
important for me to get a really nice
dark brown but again I found this too
gray and this dark brown is really rich
really deep which is what you want for a
dark brown Shadow anyway we'll get more
information on those as soon as we can
and I promise they aren't that far
away to be honest no matter what Reds
you're using I think the important thing
to get out of this video is starting
with a light color and that's just going
to help get a much more vibrant red you
can see my first pass with the airbrush
it's already looking super rich and
that's helped by the paint they're quite
a vibrant color as you can see but the
white is
just really important to get a beautiful
red I'll show you how I brush it on
because I had to brush it on for the
helmets and once they were finished you
couldn't tell the difference you can
just see how quick the airbrush is and
for me when I'm Army painting that's why
I like using the
airbrush the thing I paint the most are
display models whatever you want to call
them but kind of going all in and
spending ages on one figure is my main
thing at the moment I'm just finishing
off this Bust from our Kickstarter and
I've been painting every tiny little dot
for texture and just spending absolutely
Forever on it and for this project I
didn't use the airbrush I wanted it to
be meticulous and as you can see just
paint every tiny little Dot and this is
you know what I want to do but it is
quite tiresome sometimes so for me it's
really nice to one paint something
simple in an army level way but also
just you know get the airbrush spray the
red and just get on with it so I like to
paint those two different things at the
same time if you're interested in
tutorials like this this is what I'll
normally do over on the patreon and the
video series for this bust is I think
about an hour and 50 minutes so it's
super in-depth kind of going through
every step anyway that's my plug uh but
I do think it gives context in you know
when I'm using the airbrush for army
stuff and having that nice you know
change between this kind of painting and
some Army
painting when the red is base coated now
you've got to do the worst job which is
Block in the black my only tip I guess
is I used a big brush a size three to
block out most of it as I've done here
on the gun just kind of the easy bits
you know that you can't mess up then I
switched to a double zero detail brush
where it was close to the red and I
couldn't mess it up so this part on the
gun was a really important part and yeah
I was a little bit scared but uh I knew
I could fix any mistakes anyway but I'm
just trying to run my brush along the
side there get it as sharp as possible
but I think that's my only tip that I
can come up with uh for now it's just a
bit of a SLO I think it took me about 15
minutes per model to do the black so
these weren't too bad I also like to
paint the body suits on my Elder I think
you know it makes them stand out a
little better rather than being the same
color I did this on my striking
scorpions and it's my favorite part it
kind of makes the colors around it look
even better and I think with a red I try
and paint as much black as possible on
Miniatures uh with red and it just
really helps lift and make the red look even
even
brighter I start working on the helmets
now and I begin by blocking in the red
and this is what I mean by you can
follow this guide and do it with a brush
because it's going to look the same as
the airbrushed one in the end like the
black I have to take my time here so I
don't get on that crispy white and yeah
it took a couple coats but I got a
really nice beautiful red and yeah I
found that the airbrush just made it
quicker but the the final result there
wasn't really much in it again the key
really I think is just starting with a a
pale primer and that just makes
everything a little bit easier apart
from blocking in that
black another great thing a benefit of
having this pale primer is painting the
eyes I start with blue green from AK and
I like to start with the lightest color
often and then go darker I'm kind of
going to block in the entire eye with
this blue green and then I'll just wash
that with a darker
one you can also base coat your gems at
the same
time now I'm going to wash around the
recess and I'm using despair Green from
scale 75 which is a super dark Rich
turquoise I think you could use a
contrast paint if you have that maybe
stegodon scales I think it's called I'll
put it along the bottom the right one
but I think the point is you start with
a A light base coat then paint your
lightest blue one and then wash that and
it's going to save you a bunch of time
also makes it easy finding the recess
and the details in the eyes and you can
see we've got super Punchy colors
already got a nice vibrant red the clean
white helmets and the the really vibrant
blue I just think it's a combination
that always looks great depending on the
level you want to paint these two
there's a bunch of additional steps that
are really optional here I'm reh
highlighting with blue green and I've
put a little bit of ivory in it just to
kind of make the corner pop but this is
going to be barely visible on the
tabletop which is why I think it's quite
optional then I also do a little white
dot to make it look kind of shiny in the
corner I paint my wraith bone in a a
really simple way I use xandre dust but
it takes quite a few coats to get it
looking really good probably three so I
actually start doing this early on and I
let that dry and you know I add the
second the third coat while I'm going
back and forth between other details so
I thought I'd just get a first coat on
now and while that's drying I'll
probably work on some other
elements I take a darker red and I line
the panels for me I prioritize this over
Edge highlighting but we will add some
highlights in The Next
Step another optional step is
highlighting the red I'm going to use uh
valo Vermilion it's a really nice one
and it's got good coverage so it's nice
for highlighting I wouldn't focus on
edge highlighting personally I'm going
to focus on highlighting the parts that
are going to be facing the light around
the focal areas and just kind of yeah
building up nice volumetric highlights
which sounds fancy but it's kind of
quicker and if anything this is going to
have more impact on the tabletop than
pitting all the edges so yeah I just
focus on what I'm going to be able to
see really so things like the top of the
chest the knee a little bit on the
shoulders that's enough for me I really
focused on just adding highlights to
these yeah these areas that matter like
the shoulders and a lot of the shoulder
is covered by the backpack so I focused
on the front of those and the arms the
knees you really can just put as much or
as little effort into the highlighting
step as you want they're going to look
absolutely fine with a nice crisp red
and all the black blocked in I think
that's the important bit for the
tabletop and depending on your style
your preferences and the amount of time
you want to put into these I think
that's going to dictate how much
highlighting you do I would say defining
things with a a shadow so you know
painting in a dark line with a dark red
I would definitely do that uh but the
highlighting is certainly you know
optional I'm doing a bit of multitasking
here to save time so I'm adding coats of
that xandre dust in between and I also
begin to base coat the metallics with
decayed metal from scale 75 which is one
of our favorites I don't know if this
was a waste of time this step uh but
later I highlighted uh and maybe I could
just do
that I came to the end of my painting
session and I thought I'll glue some
sand on actually as the PVA glue takes
quite a while to dry and then I'll come
back to that the next day and I can
finish that so this was more because of
you know the timing of I was coming to
the end of the day but maybe you want to
leave the basing until last but for me
I'm trying to get this done and film Med
and I don't want to sit around waiting
for PVA to dry so I came back the next
day with my sand dried and I began my
painting session by just doing a quick
wash of a rhinox hide over everything
and you can't mess this up really if you
get tide marks it's good it's going to
look like little cracks and stains so
yeah just a nice diluted normal brown
paint and wash it over everything and I
had to do a couple coats of this but
yeah don't worry about it pulling in
areas and looking messy it will look
fine in the
end for the gun lightning I wanted a a
slight cold orange look I used pastel
Peach from AK but there is a a citadel
equivalent I think it's called lugan
orange and it's just yet a really pale
powerful orange and it works really well
so I added that to the Vermilion and I
started painting my lightning pattern so
just trying to do nice big angle changes
you don't want them to be curvy lines
and this is difficult and I had them
more dense towards the lower part of the
barrel this is just tricky I'd have a
bit of practice on something that maybe
doesn't matter if you haven't done it
before uh but definitely have a go if
you're a little bit worried about it
just try it and a few little Forks of
lightning will look cool then depending
on your skill level you can add some
white and then do the lines even finer
so if you're a little bit worried about
doing the lightning just do a more
subtle kind of of orange one a little
bit fatter if you're good with your
skinny Fine Lines then you can push this
nice and
bright I started working on the black
I've really been enjoying AK German gray
as a first highlight for black and for
these they're tabletop I didn't really
take it much further than that again I
prioritized doing you know big
volumetric highlights you know maybe
this looks scary to you but I do think
this is going to have more impact on the
table personally and I just followed you
know a long line across the gun across
the top and I did do a few of the edges
where I thought it mattered and again
this is where put as much time and
effort into it as you feel necessary you
could add brighter highlights you know
go up to a lighter gray I was pretty
happy with how it was looking with just
the German gray I'm trying to go for a
simple effective and neat job and that
means you know if I want to add any
extra to it I can come back to these
models anytime and add more I don't like
to rush any steps but I'm just doing a
few simple ones here so you know I could
add in a week's time some brighter Gray
highlights if I don't like the look of
the black or maybe I play a few games
and I'm not satisfied with how they look
I can just add some extra to any time
but what's most likely that happens is I
play some games and they look great and
I kind of forget about that they don't
have two or three stages of black
highlighting so you know again adjust
important I highlighted all the
metallics with Rune Lord brass and maybe
it would be faster if you just went with
run Lord brass straight away I'm not
sure if the decayed metal base coat is
necessary actually I think what's
probably best is a mix of the two and
then a highlight with this I think that
would probably be best either way uh
yeah I really like this color I think
it's excellent it's not too yellowy gold
I think it's perfect for the
elar so remember those stains I talked
about with the rhinox hide wash well you
can take some xandre dust now and if you
want you could add some texture to the
Rock highlight them and you can see I
don't think any of those stains are
looking bad it just kind of makes the
rock look a little bit more natural I
don't think you need to add some
highlights but you can if you
want last
is adding some grass Tufts I like using
the the Moss Tufts but I think they look
more like grass than Moss to be honest
and I really like this color because
they don't stand out too much and this
is what I've gone for on the uh the rest
of my Army so I kind of have to use
these to match but I like them a
lot okay so let's take a look at the the
final result the uh the finished unit I
think the main takeaways I wanted you to
get from this is something that's got a
lot of red on it some red and white I
think you really do have to start with a
pale primer it's just going to give you
an easier time and then the only really
difficult task is blocking in that black
but it's so worth it having the crisp
red against that black just looks really
really striking and the other thing is
just adjust the amount of detail to your
personal level you know different people
have uh different times that they have
to paint available I can obviously paint
all the time but don't feel forced to do
anything you know you don't have to add
loads of highlights loads of edge
highlights it can look good nice and
simple and crisp um so yeah just just go
with what feels and looks good let's
have a little look how they are against
the rest of my aspect Warriors and uh
yeah I'm really really happy I love that
you know the aspect Warriors don't have
to be the same color that's what really
appeals to me with the Elder uh it means
I can do the tutorials for all of them
because it's not the same color and that
makes it uh way more feasible to do an
army of these and do video content I
will be doing the rest of the Eldar I'm
not sure when I'm doing the Phoenix Lord
for the warp spiders over on Patron but
at the moment I'm just converting it and
I wanted to Repose it for no other
reason than just to make it more unique
um but yeah if you you're liking a look
at that here's a little sneak peek Peak
and I'm excited to start that series
over on patreon I hope you enjoyed this
video and these warp spiders were really
fun to paint they were really simple you
just have to take your time with those
important steps blocking in the red
blocking in the black and there's not
too many annoying details uh things like
that so yeah amazing new sculpt I really
really like them I didn't love warp
spiders before I just didn't have much
of an attachment to them but but now
they've got these amazing modern models
I think they're one of the coolest units
in my Army so hopefully this year I'll
get a chance to uh test them out in a
game anyway I hope you enjoyed it
looking forward to reading your comments
Click on any text or timestamp to jump to that moment in the video
Share:
Most transcripts ready in under 5 seconds
One-Click Copy125+ LanguagesSearch ContentJump to Timestamps
Paste YouTube URL
Enter any YouTube video link to get the full transcript
Transcript Extraction Form
Most transcripts ready in under 5 seconds
Get Our Chrome Extension
Get transcripts instantly without leaving YouTube. Install our Chrome extension for one-click access to any video's transcript directly on the watch page.
Works with YouTube, Coursera, Udemy and more educational platforms
Get Instant Transcripts: Just Edit the Domain in Your Address Bar!
YouTube
←
→
↻
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UF8uR6Z6KLc
YoutubeToText
←
→
↻
https://youtubetotext.net/watch?v=UF8uR6Z6KLc