This content provides a comprehensive, step-by-step guide to performing a pre-trip inspection on a NOVA hybrid bus, crucial for ensuring vehicle safety and passing an ICBC road test.
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Hi there. My name is Christian Charlton and I'm an acting instructor in the training department
at Coast Mountain Bus Company. In this video I'm going to demonstrate the proper procedures
for completing a pre-trip inspection on this vehicle, a NOVA hybrid. Watching this video
numerous times will help you prepare for your ICBC road test. On day 9 you will be required
to successfully complete a pre-trip inspection on a vehicle like this one. Let's begin.
I want to make sure I use two wheel blocks and I want to make sure the vehicle can't roll in
either direction. Now I come to the rear of the vehicle, first thing I want to do is to
check underneath for any overnight leaks. Then looking at the overall condition of the engine
compartment I'm looking for visible leaks or signs of damage. Checking the fluid levels:
oil, coolant and all other fluids. The belts for tension and wear, or any that are cracked or worn.
The hoses for leaks or bulges. I want to make sure that the governor and the compressor are
secure and also inspect the main discharge line. Next I want to test the one-way check
valve. First I'm going to close the draincocks on all the air tanks. Then I'm going to enter
the vehicle start the engine and build system air pressure. Shutting off the engine I'm then going
to come back and open the draincock on the wet tank. Re-entering the vehicle I want to check my
primary and secondary air gauges to ensure that the needles are not moving. This will confirm
that my one-way check valve is working properly. Then I will close the draincock on the wet tank.
Now I'm ready to begin my first walk around. As I walk around I'm looking at all the window
glass to make sure there are no cracks or chips. I'm looking at the body to make sure there is no
damage that would affect the safe operation of the vehicle, also making sure that the storage
compartments are secure. I am going to check all the lenses, light housings and reflectors to make
sure they're in good working order. Starting at this corner: Clearance light, the window,
the lens and the reflector. Checking the right side mirror, making sure it's secure and that the
glass is intact. As I come around the front of the vehicle I want to start at the top: Checking the
clearance lights, the glass over the destination sign and the windshield for any cracks or chips.
I want to check that my safety inspection decal and my insurance decal are both valid and that the
license plate is secured to the vehicle. Checking the windshield wipers for tension, condition of
the blade and that the nut is secured. Tension, checking the blade and the nut. I'm going to
lower the bike rack and I want to check that my wheel holders and my welds are in good order.
I'm going to leave the bike rack down because after I start the vehicle I'm going to make
sure that the tell-tale indicator on the dash is working properly. Looking at my indicators,
low beams, high beams and my bumper. At this corner I want to look down the left side of the
vehicle to make sure that all the emergency window exits appear closed. Checking the clearance light,
the exterior camera, the window, the reflector. Checking the left side mirror, making sure it's
secure and the glass is intact. Checking the driver's window, compartment is secure, At
the left front wheel I want to check my indicator lights, my wheel molding and my mud flap. Looking
at the tire I want to make sure that it appears inflated, on the surface that there is not less
than 3 millimeters tread depth and even wear. On the sidewall: cuts no more than 2.5 centimeters,
bulges or exposed cord. I'm checking the rim for cracks or dents, the lug nuts I want to make sure
that they are all there and that they appear tight. Looking for signs of rust spray which
may indicate a loose nut. The grease cap, making sure it's secure and that there are no leaks. In
behind the wheel I'll check the foundation brakes. This includes the brake chamber,
push-rod, slack adjuster, linings and drums. Also the airlines, suspension and steering
mechanism. To check brake adjustment on a manual slack adjuster, I will use a pry bar and ensure
that the push rod travel is between half an inch and three quarters of an inch. At the center of
the vehicle I want to check my clearance light, reflector. I also want to look underneath the
vehicle for any loose electrical lines or air lines, while checking the body mounts,
frame and structural supports. I'm also checking the driveline, differential and rear axle.
Coming to the left rear tire, I'm checking the indicator lights, wheel molding and the
mud flap. Looking at both tires I want to make sure that they appear inflated on the surface
that there is not less than 1.5 millimeters tread depth and even wear, and in between the tires for
any obstructions. On the sidewall cuts more than 2.5 centimeters, bulges or exposed cord. Checking
the rim for any cracks or dents. The lug nuts I want to make sure that they are all there,
that they appear tight and that there's no signs of rust spray which may indicate a loose nut. The
axle cover, making sure the bolts are all there that they appear tight and that there are no signs
of any leaks. In behind the wheel I'll check the foundation brakes. This includes the brake
chamber, push rod, slack adjuster, linings and drums. Also the Air Lines and suspension. Now to
check brake adjustment on a manual slack adjuster I will use my pry bar and ensure that the push rod
travel is between 1/2 an inch and 3/4 of an inch. Coming to the battery compartment I want to make
sure that the battery is secure, that the cables are attached correctly to the terminals and that
there's no signs of any leaks or corrosion. Making sure the compartments are secure. Looking at the
top, making sure there are no obstructions over the exhaust. The clearance light. No obstructions
over the air intake and the reflector. As I come to the rear of the vehicle I'm going to start at
the top. Checking the clearance lights, looking for obstructions on the vent, checking the rear
window and the destination sign. Looking at the indicator lights, the brake lights and the
Cyclops. The reverse lights and the reflectors. I want to check my 'Yield to Bus' decal,
my license plate light, making sure the license plate is secure and that it matches the one on
the front. The rear compartment and the bumper. At this corner I'm going look down the right side
of the vehicle and make sure all the emergency window exits appear closed. Clearance light,
reflector. Checking the compartment, fuel door. making sure the fuel cap is secure. At the right
rear wheel I'm going to check the indicator lights, the wheel molding and the mud flap.
Looking at both tires I want to make sure that they appear inflated on the surface, that there
is not less than 1.5 millimeters tread depth, and even wear, and that there are no obstructions in
between the tires. On the side wall for cuts not more than 2.5 centimeters bulges or exposed cord.
Checking the rim for any cracks or dents. The lug nuts I want to make sure they are all there, that
they appear tight, and that there's no signs of rust spray which may indicate a loose nut. Looking
at the axle cover, making sure all the bolts are there and that they appear tight and there's no
sign of any leaks, Behind the wheel I'll check the foundation brakes. This includes the brake
chamber, push rod, slack adjuster, linings and drums. Also the Air Lines and suspension. To
check brake adjustment on a manual slack adjuster, I will use a pry bar and ensure that the push rod
travel is between half an inch and three quarters of an inch. Coming to the center of the vehicle
I want to check the rear doors and make sure they're secure. Looking at my courtesy lights,
clearance light, reflector. At this point I want to look underneath the vehicle for any loose
electrical lines, airlines, I'm also checking the body mounts, frame, structural supports. As
well as the driveline, differential and rear axle. Coming to the right front reel. I'm going to start
by checking my destination sign, indicator lights, wheel molding and mud flap. Looking at the tire I
want to make sure that it appears inflated, on the surface that there is not less than 3 millimeters
tread depth and even wear. On the sidewall, cuts more than 2.5 centimeters, bulges or exposed cord.
I'm checking the rim for cracks or dents. The lug nuts, I want to make sure that they are all
there and that they appear tight, looking for signs of rust spray which may indicate a loose
nut. The grease cap, making sure it's secure and that there are no leaks. Behind the wheel,
I'll check the foundation brakes. This includes the brake chamber, push rod, slack adjuster,
linings and drums. Also the airline's,, suspension and steering mechanism. To check brake adjustment
on a manual slack adjuster, I will use a pry bar and ensure that the push rod travel is between
half an inch and three-quarters of an inch. if an adjustment is required on a manual slack
adjuster, I'll take a 9/16 wrench, push down on the locking collar and tighten the adjusting bolt
fully, ensuring that the camshaft rotates in the same direction as when a brake application was
made. Prying on the slack adjuster to make sure it doesn't move, then backing off the adjusting bolt
one quarter to one half a turn. Then ensuring that the locking collar comes back up to the
lock position, and retest. As I come to the front of the vehicle I'm checking my courtesy lights,
making sure the doors are secure and looking for any tripping hazards. Coming in to the vehicle I
want to make sure all my mirrors are secure, also the camera housing, the sun visors. I'm
going to check the vehicle documentation and make sure it's valid and that the unit number
matches the number above the windshield. The fire extinguisher, I want to make sure it's secure,
that the inspection card is valid, and that the yellow seal is unbroken indicating it has not
been used. Also making sure the first 10 minutes pamphlet is there. At the front - I want to open
the compartment with this button and check inside to make sure there is a scooter securement strap
and a spill kit. Also I want to look through the viewing window in the compartment below
and visually confirm there are three emergency triangles. Before entering the seat I'll make
sure it's secure and check that the seatbelt is working properly. Now I'm ready to begin the
startup procedure. Turning the master control to the 'night run' position, I will ensure that the
check engine light and alternator light both illuminate, and ensure that the wait to start
light is turned off. Pressing the start button, after the engine has started I will ensure that
the check engine light and alternator light both turn off and remain off. Also I want to check that
the telltale for the bike rack is illuminated and activate the high beam, confirming that
telltale. Then pressing both turn signals at the same time I will activate pre trip mode.
Now I'll begin my second walk around. As I walk around the vehicle I want to make sure that
all the exterior lights are working properly, clearance lights kneeling bus light, clearance
lights, destination sign, indicators, low beams, high beams. Now I'll stow the bike rack.
Clearance light, indicators, clearance light, indicators, clearance light is working. I see
all my clearance lights working and I note that the four on the right are flashing which
indicate the layover lights are in good order. Destination sign, indicator lights. I see that
both my brake and tail lights are working and the Cyclops and the reverse lights. Checking
the license plate light and now that the engine is pressurized I look again for leaks.
Checking my clearance light, indicators, checking the courtesy light, and at the rear door I'll
check the sensitive edge. Destination sign, indicators and the courtesy lights. Now I'll
begin checking the passenger compartment, making sure all the advertising is secure
and that there are no tripping hazards. In behind the driver's seat is a vent tool,
this must be used to open and close the forward ventilation hatch. This hatch can also be used
as an emergency exit if necessary. I will be checking all my camera's, making sure they
are in good order, that the stanchions are all secure and testing all the passenger chimes.
in a priority seating area I'm going to ensure that all the seats will remain
locked in the upright position. I'm going to test the accessibility chime and the
courtesy lights on both sides, and then I'm going to test the securement straps. Using
this latch I'm going to pull back on the straps make sure they are working properly,
and I will test the seat belt to make sure it works properly. Then I'll make sure to
leave all the seats in the down position. I'll continue to check the passenger compartment. I'm
looking to see that all the seats are secured and in good order, I'm looking for any sharp
objects such as broken glass or needles, also for lost property graffiti or vandalism. I'm
going to check the rear chimes to this on a separate circuit. The rear ventilation hatch,
to make sure it works properly. This hatch can also be used as an emergency exit if necessary.
I'm going to visually inspect the compartment for the rear door butterfly valve. The mirror.
I'm also checking the courtesy light on the stairs. I'm going to make sure that the green
'door active' light is illuminated and test that the door works, using my hand I'm going to cover
the sensor for approximately three seconds, and test the sensitive edge with my foot.
Making sure the door cycles open properly. As I continue back to the cab I'm going to ensure that
the emergency window exits are all secure. Now I'll be checking the cab of the vehicle where the
drivers workstation is located. I'll begin with the lower side console. This is the dimmer switch
for the instrument panel. I can confirm that that's working. This is the parking brake, I can
confirm the parking brake is applied because the parking brake light is illuminated on the dash.
This is the operator assault alarm, emergency release, applied air for the front and rear
doors. I can confirm that it's supplied because it's responsive. Moving to the upper left console,
this is the emergency drive stop override, Start button, Master Control in the night
run position. I'll test the fast idle, that's working. I'll test the 'emergency door open',
activating this switch opens the rear doors and applies the rear door interlock which I
can confirm by looking at the application gauge. While this is open I will apply the
'Door Master' switch which closes the rear door and releases the rear door interlock. I will then
turn off both switches. I'll test the 'Arm Alarm', noticing the yellow light on. Next stop request,
tag video. This is the defrost for the side mirrors. These are my mirror controls,
my door control. This is the bus kneeler, I'll activate this. While I'm here I'm going to be
testing the ramp to make sure it lifts up to 90 degrees and back. That's working properly.
Okay, this is my 1/3 door switch. This is my four-way hazard lights. I'm gonna
activate them and confirm that they work both on the dash and in both mirrors. Turning that
off I'm going to test my turn signals. The left side on the dash, and in my mirror,
and the right side on the dash, and in the mirror. I'm going to activate the high beam light and
confirm that the tell-tale indicator works on the dash. This is my Hill Holder, I'm going to
activate that I can see that I have air applied in my application gauge. Turning that off. This
is my windshield wiper control, activating the wiper fluid and testing all functions.
[Music]
This is my transmission selector panel, currently in neutral. System
Air Pressure Gauge, both primary and secondary. Application gauge,
speedometer, ramp controls. I'll test the defroster for function.
Steering-wheel, testing the tilt, telescope and horn. Moving to the upper switch panel:
this controls the left side fan, right side fan, dome lights, passenger chime, drivers light,
fare box light. The switches in this box control ventilation for the passenger compartment. Heat,
fresh air, high speed and low. This is the drivers vent fan, drivers fan,
defrost for the door. Pressing this switch deactivates ATC mode,
pressing this switch again will reactivate ATC mode. This is a sweeper switch.
Now I'm ready to test the air brakes on this vehicle. First I need to ensure that
the compressor is governor unloaded. I will apply 1/3 throttle and ensure that
the needles on the system air pressure gauges are not moving. Then I will release the parking brake
and ensure that the parking brake light on the dash turns off. Using the service brake I will
fan down to not less than 80 psi and ensure that the governor places the compressor into
the loading stage. I will apply one-third throttle until I see the needles moving.
I'll continue fanning down the service break and ensure that the low air warning devices,
both audible and visual, activated not less than 60 psi. I'll continue fanning down to
30 psi to simulate a total system error loss and ensure that the parking brake
applies automatically. I'll know this when the parking brake light illuminates on the
dash. Now I will test the emergency air supply: pushing down once on the emergency
release valve and lifting on the parking brake valve, and I will ensure that the
parking brake light on the dash turns off. Then applying 1/3 throttle I want to ensure that the
compressor builds system air pressure from 50 to 90 psi in no more than three minutes.
Making note of the time.
I'll note that the low air warning devices deactivate
as I build system air pressure above 60 psi.
I'll continue building system air pressure and ensure that the governor places the compressor
into the unloading stage between 105 and 135 psi, and it has. Next I'll perform the leak
test. Turning the master control to the night part position, I'll ensure that the parking
brake is released by testing the parking brake alarm. I'll then make a full brake application
of not less than 90 psi and while watching the needles on the system air pressure gauges I'll
ensure that I lose no more than 3 PSI in one minute, while also listening for leaks.
Once that test is complete, I will apply the parking brake,
test the parking brake alarm and exit the vehicle. Now I'll retrieve my wheel blocks.
Now I'll do some final checks. Entering the seat and putting my seatbelt on, turning the
master control to 'Night Run', and starting the engine. Now I'm going to close the door, make a
service brake application and put the transmission into drive. Then I'm going to release the parking
brake. I'm going to make sure it's safe to move the vehicle, checking my mirrors from left to
right. Then I will roll forward five kilometers an hour and apply a service brake application,
checking for response. Then I will roll forward and make a parking brake application,
again checking for response, and making sure there is no more than 10 centimeters play in the
steering. And my final step, I will fill out and sign the Vehicle Daily Status and Pre Trip Report.
The pre-trip inspection of this vehicle is now complete. On day
nine you will have 45 minutes to successfully complete a pre-trip
inspection as part of your road test. Thanks for watching and good luck!
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