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Jaguar E Type - How to Glue a Bonnet - by Monocoque Metalworks | Monocoque Metalworks | YouTubeToText
YouTube Transcript: Jaguar E Type - How to Glue a Bonnet - by Monocoque Metalworks
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Video Summary
Summary
Core Theme
This content provides a detailed, step-by-step guide on how to properly glue the various metal flanges and diaphragms to a car bonnet (hood), emphasizing best practices for a professional and durable finish.
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hi this is chuck from monocoque metal
works today
i'm gonna tell you how i glue bonnets
you know this used to be a well-guarded
secret of mine but i've realized that
there are way more bonnets in the world
and i can do myself so i might as well
tell some of you guys
how to do it if this spawn is a little
funny looking that
makes sense this is actually a series
two bonnet
that has been converted to series one with
with
covered headlights series one turn
signals we've removed the series where's
my finger there it is we've removed the
series two
uh turn signal pod so it's all series
one except it's got a big series two mouth
mouth
but the gluing part is exactly the same
now what i've done is i've done a
complete test assembly here
um you'll see this is a 60 pound bag of lead
lead
shot and it is holding this side down now
now
one of my things that i tell people but
i've kind of violated here is
don't force the bonnet into shape in any
way because it's going to want to pull
that glue apart
but this was just a very loose riding up
here of this piece and so i just need
something to hold it down so that i've
got a nice
tight glue gap here while i'm doing the
gluing that won't cause a problem later
you'll also see i've got some wires here
on the headlamp diaphragms that is
because you want
this to be straight across here
and if you don't do that as you're
lining everything up this tends to want
to like
bow out here quite a bit and it'll end
up putting
this flange here over here you know well
not that far but it'll put it out here a
little bit so you don't want that
so i've got everything just the way i
want it i've got a nice even
gap here about an eighth of an inch
sometimes they're closer sometimes
they're farther
i will mark these flanges you can kind
of see this one here is marked a little bit
bit
um and i will
put a lot more marks on these and i'll
pull everything off
the diaphragms will come out completely
with these two flanges
bolted onto them and they'll stay bolted
on the diaphragm
kind of makes a mess when you put it in
and it'll smear glue
in here but that's okay you can clean
that all up trying to put those flanges
on by themselves is a major no-no
when you put the bonnet together you
and when you're gluing and everything
you want to do the diaphragms with their
flanges on
first then do the mud shield flanges
that one and this what we call the
heater flange here
then do these four i usually start in
the front and then didn't do these two i
always end up doing the long one last because
because
for some reason it has given me trouble
in the past so i kind of
put it off um you can see i've got some
marks here
on the diaphragms already and i'll put
some more marks down
um what i am going to do next is
i'm going to put tape on the bonnet and
use it as an
edge i'll put the glue in and then i'll
peel the tape off
stock they had a very messy glue job but
i just can't handle that that's not the
way restorations go now
so we give a nice clean edge of glue on these
these
the glue we use here's another secret
is this 3m marine adhesive
it is the 4200 in black
do not use the 5200
you will never get it apart if you have
problems and when it dries it cracks
this is just like the original stuff and
it's the same color it's got just the
right strength
do not use panel adhesive
so many guys have thought oh i'm going
to use the modern panel adhesive that'll
just work great
major nightmare i'm not even going to
get into what the problems that causes
you see i've got my acetone out i've got
a whole roll of paper towels
i've got a 10 pack of these blue nitrile
gloves and like another maybe
six or eight i hope that's enough you can
can
easily go through 20 rubber gloves on
this job because you typically have to
take them off and
do a cleanup between every flange
here as you can see i have done a lot of
bonnets with my trusty cheap caulk gun
here i mean i must have done
20 or 30 bonnets with this um it's got a
lot of
the adhesive on it and there's a good
reason for that
this stuff is going to be everywhere
when the job is done
i'm a little neater than i used to be
but it makes a big mess
so i'm going to get ready now i've got
to tape these off and
mark them and then take them all off
i'll do another video here and kind of
splice it onto this so you see what's next
next
okay so real quick now i've wiped this
all down
and i have taped you see i've i've
marked here
right here i put these marks in here to
tell me what level to go to
now if you can go down a little further
once you get the glue in there
that's okay but you don't want to go
bananas because then all your four
you know your four pieces in here might
be at different levels and right now
i've got these all set to kind of the same
same
eighth inch you want that to be uniform um
um
what i didn't mention before you might
note that or you should note that
i have put a good quality etch primer
everywhere the glue is going to go
because i have found that the glue will stick
stick
better to well etch primed metal
than just bare metal but this is
sandblasted metal so you'll probably be
all right the
only time i've ever had an adhesion problem
problem
with this glue is
when i didn't prime and i didn't sand i
forgot to do anything and i was dealing
with a flange that had been run through
a planishing hammer so
it was like a mirror on the it was like
chrome on the underside
and after i took the bonnet apart
for priming with epoxy it sat around and
one of the pieces popped off the wing
because it was under pressure a little bit
bit
otherwise no no adhesion problems with
this whatsoever
so you do want to get a little etch
primer down and what i've done next is
i've put a two inch
wide piece of tape here this is the 3m
blue tape with the little green writing
it has this stuff called
edgelock you gotta get that don't get
some other cheap
version of the blue tape and i am now
going to put a piece of
one inch in here i'm going to put it
right in here and i'm going to lay it
off this little bit so i get a little
bit of an
angle here when i when i do my gluing
and that way after i get the glue
smeared in there i can pull that one
inch piece up without screwing this all
up and i'm gonna have newspaper and
stuff taped in here too
okay oh wait a minute this isn't working right
right
okay i have now put in the
one inch tape and you can see i have
stood off
here by a little bit because as you can
see there's a gap
and so you want to be able to have like
a little 45 degree angle down there
because the adhesive
will shrink a little bit it doesn't
shrink like crazy
but it will shrink a little bit and so
you want to you want to just stand off a
little bit and if the gap
is wider you want to stand off a little farther
farther
usually i stand off just under an eighth
of an inch
see down here where the gap was wide up
here i'm farther away where the gap
is real tight down here i'm down there
those little wrinkles are
stock they always have those um
and so oh what i will do now is i will
pull the diaphragms out
with these two flanges remaining on the diaphragm
diaphragm
and i will pull all four of these
flanges out i will pull this heater
flange out but i will leave
this flange in place and when it comes
time for me to do this flange
i will put a tip on the adhesive and i will
will
pump it under it's kind of a pain but
it's better than taking this all apart
i'm trying because that flange is on the
back of this one in the front of this
one and then you undo that
and sometimes there's tension one thing
i did want to mention is
this stuff um can die on the shelf and
harden up in the tube
and so what you want to do is keep it in
the refrigerator
and this is in a plastic bag i just
pulled this out of my refrigerator a
couple hours ago
this is a tube that i used halfway and
taped up so that it would seal it from
the air
put it in this bag and put it in the
refrigerator i have about a 50 50 success
success
rate on being able to use them on the
next bonnet so we'll see what happens
when i open that
it takes about a tube and a half to
do a bonnet do not start the job without
four tubes at your disposal because
you don't want to get rolling on this
and then open a tube and find out it's hardened
hardened
and uh you're sunk so
buy four tubes send two back if you're
just doing one
alright let's move on to removing the
okay i am ready to start gluing as you
can see
i've put some paper down here that i got
from the craft shop next door usually i use
use
newspaper but i forgot to bring some
over here today
um the diaphragms are out
and all the flanges are out except for
that one over there
the diaphragms are over here they've
still got their little wires on them and
the kinks are going to put them exactly
where they were before
this is going to look really ocd here but
but
these are the bolts and washers and screws
screws
that hold everything in and i've lined
these up
by flange i actually have never done
this before but this is a good idea because
because
usually i throw all this stuff in a pile
here and i'm just
rooting through it um which is tough to do
do
when you've got rubber you know blue
nitrile gloves on your hands
covered in this adhesive uh
this is what we call our assembly
hardware you can see it's been used
many many times these aren't even the
right oval washers i think these are
used for
toilets actually but i've got thousands
of those sitting around
um these are original screws there some
of them have been sandblasted some of
them haven't
but you can see they've all got the
adhesive and primer and all of that
all over them because things get very
messy and you're about to
see that um i have opened up the glue
that i used half of
last time and given it a little test
smear on here
came out a little stiff at first because
it's still a little cold from being in
the refrigerator but it's
okay you can see how it's shiny and
smeary and what you
really want to see oh see
i just stuck my fingers in it but that's
what you want to see
actually see how um it's got what i was
going to show you is
see this little tiny smear there and i
got it on my fingers and see how
see that that's what you want
because you see that you're going to
want to smear this
in to the edge after you put it down and
then pull that tape up
so this glue is looking real good if you
open one of these up
and it's not like that don't use it
it's already started to harden up so
i've got everything laid out here i've
got tons of paper towels start with a
full roll of paper towels
20 of these gloves have a
gallon of acetone ready we've got a nice
little plunger thing there
um and you're all taped up you've got your
your
your stuff down here i mean you could
wipe you could scrape off the glue after
the fact but it's just a lot messier so
i put this down
and we are gonna go ahead and get started
started
um i can't do it and film at the same time
time
i'll try to get some intermediate things
but what i'm gonna do to start out see i don't
don't
have any tip on here i'm just
squeezing it's kind of sucked back in there
there
see how it's coming out it's very hard
to squeeze this you'll get quite a workout
workout
i am gonna go right onto the flange like this
this
without any tip and go ahead and really
cover that flange and then mash it down
that's how the stuff goes everywhere
so let's go ahead and get started and
i will give you um you know a mid-level update
update
i did want to mention it has taken me
two and a half hours to get this far
since i did the first video and i
haven't been messing around i've been
doing i've been just working on this
it's usually all in the prep it'll now
take me about an
hour to glue all the flanges and then
yeah half hour 45 minutes to clean
everything up
okay i've put a nice big bead
of the adhesive onto the flanges
that are bolted down hard to the
diaphragm well actually those aren't
bolted down quite that hard but that's okay
okay
and um we are going to stick this in there
there
and this is going to smear out all over
the place and in the back we're going to
leave it and in the front we're going to
smear it along that tape line and then
pull the tape
up you can see i've got this held in an
old vise
because it takes two hands to work that
caulk gun
so here we go if i get through this
without covering this phone with this
okay i've got the first diaphragm in
you can see it makes quite a mess um
i missed a little bit this one came out
great went right where it was supposed to
to
this one kind of landed here and it's
it's very hard you always have problems
up in here the way that i do it with
keeping these on the diaphragm but
believe me that's the easiest way
so i ended up having to pull it back
pump some in and that's where you start
seeing a big mess here
this is this is how you want them to
look um it's got a nice see where i've
pulled the tape up it's got a beautiful
little seam there
some is slopped over the edge but we'll
clean that off with a razor blade after
the fact
now over here a lot is slopped over the
edge but again
that's not a concern that cleans up
easily with a razor blade after the fact
this is what you want to see on the back
side i don't know how well this will
show up see a nice bead kind of glopped
out there
so you know you've got a good adhesion
and i'll just show you up in here um
i made sure that there's enough coming
through up there
right here it's kind of touching and
that's okay it's it's fully under there
um and then it's coming out here as well so
so
one down i went through four gloves
getting that little episode done
and now i'm gonna do the other diaphragm
one trick is you're gonna be
smearing off to get this nice neat edge here
here
you're gonna end up with a whole bunch
of this on your finger on the glove
go ahead and come over here and just
wipe that on the next one so i kind of
kind of got all the all the way over to
here with excess from that and then i
just went and put a bead on there
so now we're going to put that in
okay here's the other side in this one
worked out a little better but about the
same it's it's very tough to squeeze it
in here
so you know don't worry about this
that's not really stuck to anything
let it dry and then get it off later
and again anything that's slopped over
you can scrape off with a razor blade
nice and neat we usually scuff these all down
down
because we take the whole bonnet apart
and then epoxy prime everything and then
put it all back together with finish
hardware but
you must do the diaphragms first forgot
to mention this because when you put
them in
they shove these walls in
if you if you do these first and then
put the diaphragms in
or even the diaphragm flanges it's going to
to
shove the walls over and mess up what
you've done here and it's going to mess
it up
after the glue has started to dry which
is a big mess
got to put the diaphragms in first so
they're both in now
now we're going to put in our heater
flange which is right over here
sitting in the vise it's got all the
on it left over from the smearing here
here
and then we're gonna pump glue under here
here
okay when you see the long one done that
means i have completed the gluing
so they're all in now as you can see
i made a big mess like i always do
because you're constantly getting glue
on your fingers and then you have to
you know you got to wipe wipe it
somewhere so i just wipe it all over these
these
pieces of paper like i said usually use newspaper
newspaper
all the tools have the glue on them so
they will all get wiped off with a
heavy duty shop paper towels and acetone
that takes this stuff right off
while it's wet so you got to do all of
that right now
um came out pretty good i've had better
but this came out good um i've had much worse
worse
and when it's worse it's real bad
because then when it goes bad you got to
take it all off you got to wipe it all
down with astune that takes your etch
primer off and
it just turns into a big mess you need
to be in the right frame of mind when
you do this
i was tired when i started and that
wasn't good but i was afraid to have a
cup of coffee because i'd be too jittery
so um i will probably
continue this once i get this all
cleaned up
and uh will also show you guys the whole
scraping and sanding and how that goes
so i don't know when i'll actually get
this whole video together
but i think this was a good thing to do
to help people out
so hopefully you're learning i know
there's a lot of information in here and
it's not all
organized i'm just mentioning things as
i think of them
but this should help this is how i do it
okay we're all cleaned up i've wiped
down all the tools over there
drag the trash can over and pull this
all up
and of course some of the tape sticks
especially where it's on the etch primer
it really likes to stick to that so you
got to make sure that all gets up
um here are all the flanges glued
see there's you know a little little bit
of a mess right there but that's okay
it'll all get scraped down you can see
we got nice neat little
edges um 72
hours people don't rush it
uh technically 48 will do but
i find that a lot of guys doing it at
home tend to have thicker
glue because they don't have the ability
to adjust the metal pieces
as as much as we do here and on the real
thick glue you need more time so 72
hours i probably won't touch this for a
week we've got plenty of other things
to do this is what you want the back
sides to look like
and this is kind of what the stock ones
look like but you will find that
i've pumped this in from the other side
remember i said we don't remove that flange
flange
it's very difficult to get that look
you know we've gotten that here and
see over here see how i kind of had a
a miss and then a slide in
i see this all the time on factory bonnets
bonnets
see how we've got a nice bead there
even even over i don't know if i can i
can get you
over here see
back in here got a nice bead
to hold that in place
um series twos are nice because the
mouth is big you can stick your head
right in here um without getting caught
on a series one
you have the tendency to stick your head
in and then once your ears go in you
can't get your head back out
so be careful um
there's a nice bead there for this so
we're looking real good
real good there's a nice little bead for
the heater flange now you'll see where
this is just factory glue here these
fenders were actually in pretty good
shape but it was coming apart a little bit
bit
and so i stuffed some new glue in there
this is always harder to do and so
we will have to dress this up and sand
it a little bit this stuff
actually sands
pretty well i don't want to say sands it
sands off pretty well
we'll scrape this off with a razor blade
here where it's on the flat surface
so there you go uh next segment will
show us
disassembling this and cleaning up the glue
okay i'm back it's been five days now
that the glue has been drying and
you're really supposed to let it dry 48
hours i always give it at least 72
but we've got enough stuff going on
around here that i can let it go over a weekend
weekend
and so that's what's happened so i'm now
going to take this all apart
and i'm going to scrape off this top
layer of slopped over
glue so you'll see what that all
looks like i sand it down a little bit
and just get this
real nice and then this whole thing will
be scuffed down and ready for epoxy primer
primer
so i'll show you when it's apart and we
okay now you can see i've disassembled
the bonnet i've left the wings
bolted up we don't have the spacers on
this bonnet because this bonnet is not
going to have the chrome strips going
down there or bumpers it's kind of a
high performance bonnet
um i probably mentioned this already a
million times but this is also a series
two that got converted to series one so
you can still see the weld seam from these
these
uh conversion flanges as you can see out
here it's all
smooth so but now you can see what the
glue looks like
it's it's sitting in a nice bed of glue
this has been five
days so it's nice and strong and cured
you can see where i always make sure as
i'm doing it i'm getting this nice
bed of glue pushed through out the back
so i've got a full
width of glue in there again here was
just a little touch up now
i mentioned earlier as i was doing it i
missed on this one
um this remember these flanges were
bolted to the headlight diaphragm when i
put it in it kind of went in on an angle
like that and smeared a bunch of glue there
there
i see this on factory bonnets all the
time they did the same thing at the
factory sometimes
so i will just leave this uh you know
you could cut this
and scrape it all off it's not hurting
anything it's unseen it's
semi-correct anyway so you can see
actually this is an area where we had to
do a lot of work
um so these are all ready to go now what
i'm gonna do
is i'm gonna come along and i'm going to scrape
scrape
this off with a razor blade and then
sand it down and i was going to show you
a different one but i think this is a
good one to show so i'm going to
hand the video off to brent he's going
to hold that
and video me scraping it and sanding it
to show you what we're going to do with
all of these
this is where it gets slopped over now
you can see on this edge
i have you can see the edge there
because i was i remember i took my
finger and i ran it along like this
but now what i'm gonna do is i'm gonna
take this razor blade
i'm going to run it along there like that
that
all right and we're just going to scrape this
this
excess right off
all right we will do more in a minute
but then i want to also show you after i
get that off it's just got a
very light almost a stain of excess glue
now i come along with a piece of 100
grit sandpaper
and i sand that off
and see now here's the end [Music]
[Music]
picking up a little bit of a of a mark
in the actual
sometimes you gotta like trim and scrape
a little bit
all right and now we're just gonna stand
make sure you don't sand the glue that
you want to keep
just kind of stay up here on this top
edge of the metal
get all that glue off [Music]
[Music]
boom see we haven't touched this at all
and now
that doesn't have that shiny look
anymore because it's all dusty but i
will wipe this down with a wet rag
before we're done
like
okay now i'm going to show you how i'm
going to scrape off this excess glue
with a razor blade and sandpaper now you
can see
you can see the little edge there from
where i've run my finger down with the
rubber glove
and just smeared it right along remember
i told you we always offset it a little bit
bit
because if you get some shrinkage you
don't want it shrinking up under
and i take a razor blade i put it on the
top here
and i just run it right down
holding it nice and flat against that metal
metal
okay like that here's a little piece up front
i'm gonna take that off come down in
like that
you go through about a dozen razor
blades doing this because as you're
scraping along the metal
edge you will dull them up pretty quick
see i'm not taking anything off the back
or the side just getting this top
sometimes a little trick is you can
scrape like this
and that will really take that off look
at that
beautiful all right let's see i'm just
doing a little scraping like that
boom you want to buy these razor blades
in a box of a hundred so you got
tons of them all right
that's all off now i'm going to take a
piece of 100 grit sandpaper
i'm going to come down along like this
you can see it's taking off some of the
etch primer but we'll put a little bit back
back
one trick you want to know is that the
etch primer
i put that back down on top of the cured glue
glue
just to make sure my epoxy is really
gonna stick
sometimes the epoxy is a little bit more
of a harder brittler
primer although the stuff we use is nice
and flexy
but you just want to make damn sure that
epoxy is going to stick to that now come
out to the side there
see i got a little bit of mess up here
because i had that glue
all over my fingers as i was doing this job
job
so i'm also going to run the sandpaper
up here
like this you don't want to press super
hard but believe me that
puppy is glued on there it is not coming off
off
all right so now i stand at the top
[Music]
all right that one is done now you just
gotta go along and do the rest
okay i have finished the scraping and
sanding i wiped it down with a wet rag
so you can see what it looks like now
we've got a nice smooth and even amount
of glue
showing it was a little messier
originally from the factory
but i like it this way um
and there you go that's just how i do it
like i said this it's got a nice it's
always got a nice amount
on the backside here so next what we
will do
um it gets hot and hectic when we're
doing the priming and everything
so we'll probably jump to like a
finished bonnet after this
but i will see this is the like a
greenish etch primer
i will put more etch primer over this so
that all the exposed
glue has a little etch primer on it and
that really grabs onto the glue and then
we will go ahead and put two coats of
epoxy primer on everything
apart and then we will reassemble the
whole bonnet
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