0:02 hi everyone my name is Ramon and today
0:04 we're going to be talking about how to
0:07 build a skincare routine from the basics
0:10 101 about me my name is Ramon once again
0:12 I'm from Puerto Rico I'm a cosmetic
0:15 scientist and chemist product developer
0:18 and aesthetician so I just love skincare
0:19 love talking products love talking
0:22 ingredients I actually started in food
0:24 science before jumping into Cosmetics um
0:26 I've worked at a raw material
0:27 manufacturer where I worked in skincare
0:30 sunare and color Cosmetics which beans
0:33 makeup um and also formulating with a
0:35 focus in naturality and then I'm
0:36 actually currently working on my
0:38 master's degree in cosmetic science as
0:41 well so in today's presentation we're
0:43 going to be talking about what are the
0:46 skincare routine fundamentals and where
0:48 does skin type come into that when do I
0:51 start adding more into my routine as
0:53 well as ingredient highlights to help
0:55 kind of steer you in the right direction
0:56 based off what it is you're trying to
0:59 Target with your skincare concerns and
1:01 then com common skincare routine
1:03 misconceptions so what are the
1:04 fundamentals what is the most basic
1:06 building blocks of a good skincare
1:09 routine is three steps it is a good
1:12 cleanser it's a good moisturizer and the
1:13 all important
1:16 sunscreen and with those three steps the
1:18 fundamental Am Pm routine is really
1:20 cleanse in the morning if you feel fit
1:21 you don't even need to cleanse in the
1:23 morning and then obviously have the
1:25 sunscreen as your last step then at
1:27 night wash the day away with a good
1:29 cleanse and then just moisturize make
1:30 sure that you're sealing in that
1:32 hydration and that is the most Bare
1:36 Bones routine when it comes to that
1:38 basic routine though it's very easy to
1:41 still have a very well-rounded routine
1:42 just because you have such few products
1:43 doesn't mean it's not going to be an
1:45 effective routine you're not going to be
1:47 able to Target your specific skincare
1:49 concerns but some things to consider
1:52 when it comes to those three products is
1:54 textures do you prefer more lightweight
1:56 textures do you love really rich very
1:58 nourishing textures when it comes to the
2:00 leave on products so the the ones that
2:01 you're leaving on your skin that
2:03 sunscreen that
2:05 moisturizer what actives are potentially
2:07 included in those to give you a more
2:09 thorough benefit give you that more
2:11 well-rounded routine so moisturizer
2:12 doesn't have to be just a simple
2:13 moisturizer and you can actually do a
2:15 lot with sunscreens Beyond just sun
2:16 protection and then the one thing that's
2:18 really going to influence what direction
2:20 you're steering your skincare routine is
2:22 what are your skin goals what is it
2:24 you're trying to achieve with this
2:27 skincare routine so let's talk skin
2:29 types cuz I mentioned the very Bare
2:31 Bones routine and I didn't talk skin
2:33 types and how that fits into there
2:35 there's the two main skin types and I
2:37 just want to say as well skin types is a
2:39 very subjective thing because there can
2:42 be how your skin tends to on an everyday
2:45 basis act or react or behave but then
2:47 certain things happen your external
2:49 environment might change your the way
2:51 you're treating your skin might affect
2:52 how it feels you're not going to be an
2:55 exact skin type basically because
2:57 sometimes your skin needs different
2:58 things you just got to listen to what
3:01 your skin is saying so the two basic
3:02 skin types we're going to talk about
3:06 today are oily skin and dry skin when it
3:09 comes to oily skin or oily leaning the
3:11 concerns around that tend to be
3:14 pigmentation blemishes and visible pores
3:16 and again these are just generalizations
3:18 here you can have dry skin and suffer
3:21 from some of these oily skin specific
3:23 concerns and vice versa and then with
3:25 dry skin the things we really see around
3:28 that is a very tight feeling you might
3:30 notice your fine lines tend to be a
3:32 little bit more noticeable maybe
3:34 exaggerated and then flaky skin really
3:37 dry flaky skin so when it comes to how
3:38 you then shape your skincare routine
3:40 these are concerns that you might want
3:42 to be targeting so let's talk about a
3:44 skincare routine for oily skin going
3:47 back to those three Basics you can see
3:49 the main highlights we're looking at are
3:51 something lightweight something non-
3:54 greasy something non shiny Matt is a
3:56 very popular demand when it comes to
3:58 developing formulating oily skin
4:00 products you can see the the three steps
4:02 here and what you can kind of look for
4:04 if you're trying to build that routine
4:07 for a cleanser you want a more gel or
4:09 foaming cleanser you might want to have
4:10 actives in there too specifically
4:12 targeting those oily skin concerns we're
4:14 talking a benzil peroxide based cleanser
4:17 a salicylic acid or BHA cleanser or
4:19 maybe something with NI cinnamide in it
4:22 those tend to Target those oily skin
4:24 concerns then in the morning you can
4:25 just top that up with a sunscreen right
4:27 afterwards when it comes to sunscreens
4:29 for oily skin we're looking at a
4:31 lightweight gel or gel cream texture or
4:33 maybe even a milk something light and
4:36 runny I know ethanol tends to be
4:38 demonized by more conservative
4:41 approaches but in sunscreen formulations
4:43 ethanol is a really great ingredient to
4:44 have because it helps give a kind of a
4:46 cooling effects when you apply it on the
4:48 skin as that ethanol evaporates out
4:50 ethanol is volatile so it's not staying
4:53 on the skin on top of that it allows
4:54 your sunscreens to be a lot more
4:57 lightweight feeling and when it's a
4:59 sunscreen sunscreens have natural film
5:01 not natural but film forming abilities
5:03 are a very inherent thing in a sunscreen
5:05 and that also lends itself to a
5:07 moisturizing effect therefore any
5:09 negative effect you might get from
5:11 ethanol instantly mitigated by the
5:13 hydrating and moisturizing ingredients
5:15 in your sunscreen and then we look at
5:17 marketing and you see oilfree dry touch
5:19 for a lot of oily skin focused
5:21 sunscreens it might not be the case
5:23 where it's actually dry touch it's
5:25 actually matte but those types of
5:27 formulas or those marketing claims tend
5:29 to be favored towards oily skin so while
5:31 it might not be a matte matte sunscreen
5:33 it might not be completely shine free
5:35 those tend to have a lighter feeling
5:37 texture or be just more suitable for
5:40 oily skin and then you also tend to
5:42 notice that oily skin sunscreens are
5:44 more humant focused they tend to be more
5:46 hydrating again going back to that gel
5:49 gel cream texture so that's your am
5:50 routine when it comes to night time
5:52 again we're just cleansing the day off
5:54 that sunscreen breaking down that makeup
5:56 and then we're finishing that routine
5:58 with a sunscreen or sorry with a
5:59 moisturizer at at night time no
6:02 sunscreen at night um and those PM
6:04 moisturizers for oily skin again gel or
6:06 gel cream texture very lightweight
6:09 humant Focus again very hydrating and
6:11 then those also tend to be oilfree for
6:14 some of the occlusives and spreadability
6:15 benefits we're looking at silicones
6:17 which are a really really good skincare
6:18 ingredient I feel like those are also
6:21 very demonized right now but you have
6:22 volatile silicone so again those
6:25 evaporate out or you could tend to have
6:27 just nourishing occlusive silicon but
6:29 that still feel very lightweight on the
6:31 skin and really good spreadability and
6:33 now for dry skin again same three steps
6:35 but we're looking at a very different
6:38 set of claims a very different purpose
6:40 we want a dry skin routine to be more
6:42 nourishing to feel more rich and to
6:45 impart more glow on the skin for a
6:47 cleanser we tend to look for milky or
6:50 creamy cleansers and we also tend to see
6:51 non-f foaming for these types of
6:54 cleansers and when it comes to what
6:55 those cleansers can contain in terms of
6:57 extras we're looking at conditioning
7:01 ingredients also fatty alcohols oils
7:03 ceramides to kind of support skin
7:05 moisturization these are like things
7:07 that mimic the natural lipids in the
7:09 Skin Barrier or just help to support
7:11 them in reducing water loss keeping the skin
7:12 skin
7:14 moisturized and then in the morning
7:16 again just a sunscreen after that very
7:17 different texture we're looking at
7:19 lotions we're looking at creams we want
7:22 these sunscreens to have oils Butters
7:24 waxes to help moisturize give that nice
7:26 rich feel on the skin help to
7:28 essentially smooth down the skin and
7:30 that's the emole benefit we see from
7:32 these ingredients emolion give good slip
7:34 they smooth down the skin so that the
7:36 skin looks more glowy feels more soft
7:38 and we're looking at claims around
7:41 moisturizing dewy to get that glow and
7:45 then at night sorry real quick actually
7:47 for day time if you have very dry skin
7:49 and you find it is necessary you can
7:51 layer a Moisturizer in a sunscreen
7:53 sunscreen always goes last but when you
7:55 really want that extra moisturization
7:58 that extra hydration it is okay to layer
7:59 a moisturizer underneath your sunscreen
8:02 in the morning if you find it fit um
8:03 it's just for oily skin we don't we
8:05 don't tend to do that we tend to keep it
8:08 simple but for night time now again
8:10 cleanse cleanse everything away and then
8:12 go in with a moisturizer to just layer
8:15 all the hydration in for nighttime again
8:16 different texture for that moisturizer
8:18 we're looking at a lotion cream or a
8:20 balm something very occlusive something
8:23 very rich occlusive just means it locks
8:25 in the hydration a lot better um and
8:26 then we're looking for something that's
8:28 very lipid Rich things that are oilbased
8:32 again oils Butters waxes fatty alcohols
8:35 cholesterol ceramides those three that I
8:36 just mentioned fat fatty alcohols
8:37 cholesterol ceramides those are the
8:39 things that generally make up the Skin
8:42 Barrier so with that topically applied
8:43 on top you're really just supporting
8:45 what the Skin Barrier naturally does
8:47 reducing that trans epidermal water loss
8:49 and keeping that skin really moisturized
8:51 we want that emolient feel as well so
8:52 that's when you see all those oils and
8:53 butters in there and you're going to get
8:56 a much richer feeling
8:58 moisturizer so quick routine wrapup to
9:00 kind of wrap everything up that we just
9:02 mentioned listen to your skin just
9:03 because you tend to lean more oily or
9:05 tend to lean more dry sometimes your
9:07 skin switches up and you really have to
9:09 tailor on a day-to-day basis how you
9:11 treat your skin what you do to your skin
9:13 just to make sure that you are giving it
9:17 what it needs fragrance versus fragrance
9:19 free this is a really really hot topic
9:21 I'm Pro fragrance and that's only just
9:23 because I understand there's that extra
9:25 sensory element some people do want from
9:28 their skincare products unless you are
9:30 already sensitive to fragrant compounds
9:32 it's not something you necessarily need
9:35 to avoid and from a product development
9:36 standpoint that's still a big factor
9:38 that we consider because consumers still
9:40 do want those fragrance they want that
9:43 nice sensory experience it just
9:44 sometimes gives you that extra level of
9:46 I love using this product because it
9:50 also smells delicious barrier care is
9:52 priority and with that what I mean is
9:53 sometimes keeping it simple and really
9:55 focusing on skin moisturization
9:57 hydration making sure your Skin Barrier
9:59 is nicely nourished and tap and
10:01 supported is going to be fundamental to
10:03 add anything else into your routine just
10:05 to make sure all those extra actives and
10:07 ingredients are able to work a lot more
10:09 effectively a compromised barrier is
10:11 essentially an injured Skin Barrier and
10:13 so just making sure your Skin Barrier is
10:15 healthy it's happy is going to be very
10:18 pivotal to better achieve your skin
10:21 goals sometimes less is more and by that
10:24 I mean you don't have to do 12,000 steps
10:27 I personally am very Pro intensive
10:30 routine as a self-care th fundamentally
10:31 I'll always preach simple is always
10:33 going to be better with the exception of
10:35 sunscreen less is never more when it
10:36 comes to sunscreen always put on enough
10:38 sunscreen to achieve the advertis
10:40 protection and then speaking of
10:42 sunscreen find a texture that you like
10:45 and that you'll want to use every day I
10:47 personally on my socials sunscreen is
10:50 the biggest type of content that I do
10:51 and I'm always trying to help people
10:52 find the sunscreen that is perfect for
10:54 them gives them the benefits that they
10:55 want looks and feels the way they want
10:58 it to on their skin and finding that
11:00 sunscreen that you absolutely love will
11:02 make that less of a chore to do on a
11:04 daily basis find a texture that you'll
11:06 want to reapply as well if that is
11:07 something that you need to consider if
11:10 you're in prolonged UV exposure and then
11:12 consider do I need an everyday sunscreen
11:14 or a heavy duty sunscreen and by that if
11:16 you're just going from school to home or
11:19 from home to work very simple day a
11:21 lightweight sunscreen will be will be
11:23 fine reapply if need be if you are
11:25 sweating or if obviously you're at the
11:27 beach at the pool always consider a more
11:30 heavyduty water resistant option those
11:32 two sunscreens kind of live in separate
11:34 worlds you can find elegant sunscreens
11:35 in both sides of that but just consider
11:37 do I need an everyday sunscreen or more
11:40 heavy duty option so next let's add in
11:42 the extras these are toners Essences
11:45 serums treatment fundamentally all these
11:47 things are a Serv as vehicles for
11:49 actives and that's kind of every skin
11:51 care product you're going to use but by
11:54 that it's a matter of these extra things
11:55 these toners these serums and everything
11:57 they just serve as a supplement to the
11:59 basic three step so once you have those
12:01 basic three steps you can start to add
12:03 things into your skincare routine and
12:04 those things are going to be vehicles
12:05 for the active ingredients that are
12:08 going to help you achieve your skin
12:10 goals and the reason is that they can
12:12 have higher percentages of the active
12:14 ingredients in them or just a higher mix
12:16 of a bunch of different actives if
12:17 you're being very specific with what
12:19 you're targeting so for example things
12:21 to consider with these is what texture
12:23 do you prefer if you want a more
12:25 lightweight essence or toner those are
12:26 more watery they tend to be more
12:29 hydration focused or do you want
12:30 something more Rich a more richer
12:31 texture and these are the serums and
12:33 treatments that they're just going to
12:34 have more body to them some of these are
12:36 more moisturizing what is your skin
12:39 concern or goal just because the right
12:40 combination of certain activ which we're
12:43 going to talk about next are going to be
12:45 a lot better to streamline achieving
12:47 these goals that you want to get to and
12:49 you want to consider layering or how
12:50 you're going to cycle through these
12:52 ingredients throughout the week um just
12:54 to have a more holistic effect when it
12:55 comes to targeting your skincare
12:57 concerns and then what is your Skin's
12:59 tolerance this is a big one here
13:00 because sometimes people have more
13:03 sensitive skin or more sensitized skin
13:05 or some people just have a more tolerant
13:07 skin and they can layer more things or
13:09 combine higher strength actives so if
13:11 you have more sensitive skin consider a
13:13 wash off option if you have sensitive
13:15 skin consider a toner that has a lower
13:17 percentage of an active and just always
13:20 remember layering certain actives can be
13:22 more irritating so ingredient highlights
13:23 we're going to talk about a few major
13:25 like the Main Ingredients here we have
13:28 retinoids which are retinol retin now
13:30 these help it skin sell turnover and can
13:32 be great for blemishes pigmentation
13:35 texture Fine Lines ahas it's an
13:37 ingredient category and under that you
13:39 have glycolic acid lactic acid and
13:41 mandelic acid and those help SLO off
13:43 dead skin on the surface and those are
13:44 great for the appearance of texture and
13:46 pigmentation if you have more sensitive
13:49 skin consider a PHA and that still
13:50 exfoliates but it's just a lot more
13:51 gentle with a bigger
13:55 molecule bhas are great if you have oily
13:57 acne prone skin specifically and that
13:59 salicylic acid is the B ha if you have
14:01 more sensitive skin an lha which is a
14:03 capillo salicylic acid could be a good
14:05 option it's a very effective ingredient
14:08 still those also SLA off dead skin but
14:10 are more specific for oily acne prone
14:12 skin and again better for the appearance
14:15 of blemishes pores texture blackheads
14:17 oiliness vitamin C is a really hot
14:19 ingredient category it's very popular
14:21 and it's a very complicated category
14:23 ascorbic acid is the most direct form of
14:24 vitamin C but then you have derivatives
14:26 and each of the derivatives kind of
14:28 shines in its own way in tackling the
14:30 three main things that vitamin C can do
14:31 which is the appearance of Fine Lines
14:33 the appearance of pigmentation and
14:36 giving you antioxidant protection nide
14:38 which is also vitamin B3 it's a very
14:40 multifaceted well-rounded ingredient
14:43 it's great for pigmentation blemishes
14:45 oiliness Fine Lines moisturization
14:47 barrier supports it's interesting
14:48 because it covers the Gambit of oily
14:50 skin to dry skin depending on the
14:52 formula that it's in and then humectants
14:54 those help hydrate the skin and that
14:55 gives you that immediate Plumping effect
14:56 just because it's really giving your
14:58 skin a nice drink of water to make your
15:01 skin look more full soothing ingredients
15:03 and those just help to reduce the look
15:05 of redness and help the skin to feel
15:08 more soothe and then antioxidants this
15:10 itself is a really big category a lot of
15:12 things can give you antioxidant benefits
15:13 to some degree these are kind of the
15:15 main ones you're going to see and these
15:16 just protect your skin they offer an
15:18 extra level of protection Beyond
15:19 sunscreen and they protect your skin
15:22 from reactive oxygen species AKA free
15:24 radicals if you're targeting pretty much
15:26 any skin concern but specifically the
15:29 signs of aging this is a great cat or to
15:31 have on top of sunscreen and retinoids
15:33 speaking of which based off your
15:35 skincare concerns here's little lists
15:36 for here's a little list of ingredients
15:38 based off your skincare concern
15:40 screenshot this but just consider when
15:42 it comes to tackling skin care concerns
15:43 the look of blemishes the look of
15:45 pigmentation you want a very
15:48 well-rounded routine so cycle through
15:49 these ingredients throughout the week
15:50 some of these you can layer in the same
15:54 routine just be mindful of irritation
15:55 there's certain things that just when
15:58 combined on skin that's not used to them
15:59 just leads to irritation which can
16:02 exacerbate certain skincare concerns so
16:04 it can worsen blemishes for example so
16:05 just be mindful of listening to your
16:08 skin don't go crazy but these are really
16:10 good ingredients to consider a lot of
16:11 times in products targeting for example
16:13 the look of pigmentation you're already
16:14 going to see a good mix of these but
16:16 common misconceptions when it comes to
16:18 skincare routines you need multiple
16:20 steps you don't and a lot of times uh
16:22 just a moisturizer sunscreen will
16:24 already have some of those actives built
16:26 into them so a sunscreen for example
16:28 with vitamin C and nicomide can be great
16:30 for antioxidant protection but also
16:32 targeting the look of pigmentation
16:35 expensive equals better there's amazing
16:38 amazing drugstore skincare at very
16:40 affordable prices the ordinary comes to
16:42 mind for example which just tells you
16:43 like you don't need to spend a lot of
16:45 money to get really good results from
16:48 your skincare uh more expensive products
16:49 might have some more technology built in
16:51 might focus a lot more on Elegance you
16:53 never need to spend more money to
16:54 achieve really good results the big one
16:57 as a chemist is you can't mix X
16:59 ingredient and Y ingredient what this
17:00 really comes down to why you see a lot
17:02 of people talk about this just as a
17:05 result of irritation certain ingredients
17:07 if layered together you're not used to
17:09 them again will irritate you for example
17:11 exfoliants and retinoids nice camide and
17:12 vitamin C was a really popular one there
17:14 for a while those are completely fine to
17:16 mix or layer I mean and you'll see
17:17 products that already have them combined
17:19 together but if you have more sensitive
17:21 skin it might just be a matter of you
17:23 can't put them together for the sake of
17:25 irritation the only combination that I
17:27 will actually say you can't mix together
17:29 just because they cancel each other out
17:31 is aroid and benzo peroxide which if
17:34 you're focusing on blemish prone skin
17:35 just be weary of combining those two in
17:37 the same routine cycle them through
17:39 either one in the daytime one in the
17:41 night time or just every other day and
17:42 then higher strength equals better
17:44 results that's not always the case
17:45 higher strength sometimes just means
17:47 more irritation again just be mindful of
17:49 listening to your skin higher faster
17:51 louder when it comes to skincare isn't
17:53 always going to be the most expedited
17:57 results so just calm down downshift
17:59 relax and be mindful of being patient
18:01 when it comes to targeting your skincare
18:03 concerns and then final thoughts you
18:05 don't need a lot of products for a good
18:07 routine the basic three plus maybe one
18:09 extra serum depending on what you're
18:11 tackling is sufficient enough to achieve
18:13 your skincare goals especially when you
18:15 can find moisturizers and sunscreens
18:17 with actives are already built into them
18:20 just you don't have to do a lot but that
18:22 being said it's okay to use an extra
18:24 products in your skincare routine just
18:25 because it makes you happy one thing I
18:27 love to promote is skincare for the sake
18:29 of selfcare if a product smells good it
18:31 just feels really good when you wear it
18:33 that's fine to use it doesn't have to
18:35 have an a specific purpose to include it
18:38 in your routine but no matter what it is
18:39 when you're targeting a specific
18:41 skincare concern or you want to achieve
18:43 a specific goal consistency is key with
18:45 a lot of these skincare actives you have
18:48 to use them consistently for a few weeks
18:49 to a few months to really see the
18:51 results you want to get so just be
18:54 mindful of being consistent and making
18:55 sure you're being diligent with your
18:57 routine uh as a chemist this next one
19:00 skincare is not toxic there's a lot of
19:02 laws and regulations and rules put into
19:04 place as to what we can put in your
19:06 skincare and at what percentages and
19:08 even still we tend to use them at a much
19:10 lower concentrations than what is even
19:13 allowed so just notes skincare sold in
19:16 stores like very regulated skincare is
19:18 not toxic we have to abide by certain
19:21 laws and last thing you sunscreen every
19:22 skincare concern that you tackle
19:24 sunscreen will always benefit on top of
19:25 that sunscreen is great for preventing
19:27 skin cancer always consider other sunare
19:30 measures as well AKA avoiding direct
19:33 sunlight UPF clothing and then thank you
19:35 thank you to Jen for allowing me to be
19:36 part of this and inviting me to
19:39 participate I am very honored to be part
19:41 of a skincare e Summit uh thank you to
19:43 my husband Jorge for helping me with
19:45 this presentation I am a chemist I'm not
19:47 a graphic designer thank you to my
19:49 friend Tony aka capricorni skin for just
19:51 being a really good soundboard to help
19:53 me come up with this presentation and
19:54 what I'm going to say to you guys and
19:57 then Ember for helping me with a lot of
19:59 recommendations and also being my
