This video details the process of 3D printing a life-size Buster Blade replica, focusing on efficient print orientation, assembly techniques, and finishing for a high-quality result.
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what's going on everybody i'm quest for
nostalgia i love talking things video
games and nerdy i hate long intros this
video is gonna be about how i 3d printed
this awesome life-size buster blade
so let's get into the video so yeah you
guys have seen a few different things
now about 3d printing i've done some
things like the bb unit over here
calcus's lightsaber i've got iron man
and mando but this one here is
definitely my most impressive 3d print
so far i mean it's huge you see this
thing comes in at about you know five
nine ish and it's awesome i i love this
thing it was a free file over on
thingiverse and i wanted to show you
guys how i did it i documented
everything i wanted to show you how to
put it on the 3d printer how to get it
with the you know fewest amount of
supports and just you know create
something of your own like this i mean
you could do the classic cloud poses
here this thing is super cool super
sturdy and it's just an iconic sword and
i know there's other people that have
done build videos about building the
buster blade but i think there's
information that they've missed and just
skipped out on and i wanted this to be
something for you guys to really have a
good guide about how to do this for
yourselves not just a few pictures here
and there hopefully this video will be
helpful for you if you have a 3d printer
or maybe you just enjoy watching the
build process of how i created you know
this iconic sword but yeah let's start
with how i got these files put onto my
printer and kind of the build
orientation that's always probably the
most tricky part about these builds is
figuring how you want the little pieces
to be put onto your printer and this was
printed in like 25 pieces or something
like that so i'm going to show how they
are all welded together and how it
became so sturdy of a sword here
cool so
the hardest part in 3d printing is
honestly trying to figure out
the print orientation getting good at
figuring out how we're gonna put the
pieces onto the bed is it something that
i i feel like takes the most mental
brainpower and you know is what people
really want to see and so i took you
know there's multiples of these pieces
so like there's so many of this section
here uh this like blade piece you're
gonna have tons of those same thing with
the edge pieces here there are a ton in
this build so you only need to see it
once but i just wanted to take out some
of the different ones some of the tricky
pieces and really show you because
that's what i wish i had somebody to
tell me and and that's where i think
this tutorial is really going to help you
you
so with this this is just the end cap to
the end of there i printed it just like
this i had it where the base is here
what i do though is i take the support
blocker here and i touch inside there
boop and i block out the
center support there but i do leave the
supports on this overhang here but i did
not want it to fill this whole damn hole
with supports and i usually just go
um supports from the build plate so
instead of saying everywhere we would
just go touching build plate and that's
it right there the next one this one
here this is the base of your blade
and so
here we go oh wrong way print it just
like this on these edges i did not
support anything in here i only did
touching build plates so i let there be
small supports in these grooves and they
were really not hard to pull out of at all
all
but i did not want to dig out uh
you know support material inside of
these detail pieces
also i found that my printer here really
does a good job with spheres so anything
here that has an arc each layer is going
to build on top of the next layer so i
had no issues at all doing anything like
that so when it came to
this circle here everything stayed nice
i just wanted this t-piece supported and
then these little grooves inside of
there and just let it go so like i said
just touching the build plate nothing
inside here and this printed great you
know that gap nothing nothing had any
issues and then this one is very similar
to all the other uh blade pieces but
but
again i just did touching build plate i
did no supports in here i i mine came
out absolutely fine that overhang is so
tiny that it filled it it worked fine
and so i had a little tiny cube of
support right there and then a little
bit of support here but that is it only
supports touching build plate and that
was great left this open and
here this overhang right here at the top
i was worried i did one piece at a time
to see if it would work and i was like
you know if it fails it fails
but i was able to bridge this gap very
easily very easily so i had no support
in here just let it fly and yeah it
covered this super easy i don't know if
it was just like because the
uh infill was going in a diagonal but i
had no issues leaving this completely
because again i did not want to dig out
support next here we have one of the
trickier uh like edge pieces here
and this is honestly how i printed it
just like this as well touching the
build plate there except for this one i
did do everywhere because i did want the
support here
and because it was coming from somewhere
open it was gonna be very easy to grab
this with pliers right on the outside of
this and pull it and it come off cleanly
so i did support everywhere on this
piece here and it was good to go no
issues at all
and then here comes what you're gonna
see way more often
is you're gonna have like 10 of these
pieces to do
and i did these ones similar to that
first like handle cap so i wanted the
piece to go here right i wanted the
support but what i actually did was i blocked
blocked
this red piece here so what i would do is
is
take this
move this up just a tad here
and then let's scale it
scale it there
you can do you know uniform or snap
scaling whatever but all i wanted really
was it to block
this red section there underneath so i
didn't support that because i didn't
want to dig this out
but i let it support this big overhang
here so all it would do is it would
print the same little kind of triangle
here and then this tower up and that was
it and it would leave this spot hollow
and it really this made that tiny little
overhang super easy and then this was
the only support i needed and so that
was how i did every one of my blade
pieces and i would do these about three
at a time because i have a cr-10s so i
could go one
two and then three all in a row
and that i knocked out about three at a
time there everything else all the big
uh edge pieces or blade pieces i did um
one at a time just in case there was
failures or anything
this scared me um i didn't do any
supports in there at all i didn't want
it to get all nasty in there it did it
fine but tubes big long tubes like this
i had a terrible time printing a
keyblade early on in printing and it has
just always scared me from now printing
giant tall tubes uh this comes in two
parts where it's split in half as well
which maybe if you're more concerned you
can do it in two parts and just not risk
it falling over at this height up here
but yeah my mind survived i was very
very happy i might have lowered the
print speed a little bit uh jets for
this print alone uh but that is about it
all right we only have a few more pieces
here this one is your bread and butter
you're gonna sit like i said have you
know a good eight to nine of these and
i laid mine here where like like i said
my printer was able to this gap up here
this this overhang at the top
i was able to bridge that fine so i
didn't want that to be on the ground
because how it lays when it first comes
in here is something like this where you
have this big long thing there and i was
like ugh i probably could even get away
with no supports in there i was like why
even risk it so what i did was this
really nice flat edge here i actually
laid it on the smoothest edge i only had
to support
sorry it's actually clipping through the
bed right now but i only had to support
this tiny little block there
this i left open and then it that it
does that overhang fine and then this
groove you know clearly had no issues
and that's it those are super easy and
like i said you have like five that are
very similar to that
and then the last one
is the handle guard and god that's so
far away oh wrong one wrong handle there
we go here we come
here we come
uh this one i positioned them upright
instead of doing them flat along the bed
because there's this little tiny lip
here you can see it
i didn't want that to be there i didn't
want it to try to start to do supports
or anything like that i just supported
all of this so i did jets touching build
plate and did the supports here and
these peeled off so easily so easily
there was no issue at all peeling out
those um i had nothing else you know i
you can check and see if it's trying to
do maybe something on these circles make
sure you don't you don't need it at all
it'll be fine and yeah there's two of
these you know
to complete the whole handle guard and
that's it so that's orientation
i think that's what people always
struggle with but there's probably three
hard things to this
uh print or not print but the whole the
whole build the orientation so now you
guys are covered with that uh welding so
i welded all of those pieces because you
have like 25 pieces so i welded those
pieces together and i'm going to show
you guys how we're going to do that and
then filling it with bondo or wood
filler whatever you choose and i
actually did different on each side i
did wood filler on one side and i did
bondo on the other so let's get into the
next steps all right so always wear a
respirator when we do the plastic
welding we're going gonna be using the
soldering iron to weld these two together
together
um i'm getting them nice and snug
they've got registration keys on this
thingyverse file but yeah i just drag it
across the seam there and it kind of
bubbles up a little bit on each side and
then i fold that excess back into each
other and using plastic from both sides
to fuse it into one piece and so here i
am just kind of you know like i said
folding it back and forth to really get
a good adherence there
this is a great spot to weld it's
underneath of the material slot holder
and so that's not even going to be seen
so it's a really nice place to do a weld
but i tried to weld in areas that
weren't going to be affected by detail
that i was going to have to fix lines
and and whatnot
but yeah here i am again on the other
material slot and you just see me you
know fold it back and forth
i first saw this through frankly built
and here it is a better close-up view
dragging across and then you can see me
kind of wiggling it back and forth just
folding those in back and forth
sometimes i do kind of circles almost
like a real weld
and make it nice and i just make a divot
that i can fill later with bondo
as opposed to you know having like a big
mound like i'm not adding plastic in
there some people use a 3d pen
to fill the hole back up but for me i'd
rather have these small grooves that i'm
going to fill with bondo later which is
going to be a lot easier instead of
sanding a bunch of extra plastic down
i'm gonna fill the hole up and this
thing came in like 25 pieces uh it's the
free file on thingiverse so there's a
lot of welding to do here and here
you're seeing again i just used that
like five pound plate uh it worked
perfectly for the edge of the handle
guard uh to give me a little bit off of
there but yep just tacking these down and
and
that's it you gotta do this a ton i put
on some gundam and uh now we're ready to sand
sand
and this i'm using 80 grit sandpaper on
a walmart like uh detail sander here i
have a ryobi circular orbital sander and
that thing is way too powerful for 3d
prints this thing is so much less
horsepower it doesn't really you know
wreck the print but that ryobi one will
cut through plastic way too fast so this
is just 80 grit i'm trying to be random
with it trying to be fast over all of
the spots and just knocking down the
layer lines as best i can getting into
the the corners that's why i like the
detail sander that point is really nice
and yeah just going back and forth over
this and
knocking it down before i start putting
in filler so i want to make sure that
there's a
divot and it feels kind of smooth to the touch
so here you're seeing after i bonded and
wood fillered i did one on each side to
see what was better i didn't show the
process of doing that because i don't
think my process was correct bondo was
hard to work with the wood filler was
much easier to work with but you'll see
the my complaints about wood filler later
later
so here's me sanding the wood filler
first and oh my gosh this gums up your
sandpaper so fast so so fast it's
miserable you can only go like two
seconds before your thing is completely
gummed up so you either have to clean
the sandpaper off or you have to get a
new sheet and i hated it absolutely
hated it the bondo here this side was
much better i mean goodness it was a
pain to apply like working with the
hardener and mixing it but look at that
sandpaper at the end after doing the
entire sword face there it was so much better
better
and you see how much more comes off of
the wood filler it almost leaves behind
nothing whereas the bondo really stays behind
behind
now we're using filler primer and this
is i'm going to show you the filler
priming stage but whenever i paint all
the rest it's it's very similar to this
i'm not going to show you painting again
and again and again uh but yeah here's
filler primer
going through and doing about a half of
overlap on every spray there and yeah
just really you know it's going to help
me fill in even the smaller nooks and
crannies that the sandpaper left behind
at this point this thing is sanded all
the way up to 120 i did 80 grit first
and then 120
after that and then did the filler
primer and so here's time for the other
side you're gonna do exactly the same
thing so the little nooks and crannies
were hand sanded and then the big
surfaces were
orbital sanded uh but yeah this is at
120. my i ran out of filler primer so i
grabbed all of my quote unquote empties
and see if i had enough left to just
kind of finish this out so i didn't have
to run to the store i got super lucky
that i was able to finish this out with
just some of my leftover cans that were
just you know sitting by uh being
now i'm moving it into the garage
because i've got some more stuff to do
here and that's one thing about doing a
print this big is it sucks when you're
reliant on having to have good weather
to print to paint outside as opposed to
being able to like paint in a spray
booth oh you're about to see disaster
i'm needing the putty to make sure the
hardener and everything is mixing well
and then all of a sudden this thing
decided to pop on the end and just fall
on the print
but it's okay i used it to you know go
ahead and
fill up all these little lines here you
know so i knew i was going to do this
eventually i turned this area into a
little spray booth i put a you know that
bed sheet kind of thing that you're
seeing beside it down and started
spraying in here so that way i could get
out of the wind the wind was so annoying
and just ruining
just making it hard to to paint so
having to wait between gusts so
being able to spray in my garage and
have an area was much better but that's
where it's like i don't really want to
do big prints
this is sanded down to uh
220 after this point or 240 i sanded all
of those down and then here i am i did
sandable primer after that phase and i
actually didn't sand this again i let it
go there and i
used this metallic rust-oleum paint and
to spray the blade side of this
i end up doing um two layers there
and then next is gonna be this dark
gunmetal uh metallic finish this is only
one coat here but i as you see i mask
the silver off and then sprayed this
dark gunmetal but i ended up doing two
coats of this
and here's the finale i love the way
this thing turned out super impressed
with it it's so crazy it's such a giant
print like i said it's hard when you
don't have an area to paint in but i
really love this such an iconic sword
and i hope you guys like the way that
this turns out and that this video is helpful
helpful
i'm over here editing this whole video
and i realized i didn't even film an
outro so i was all the way done and
realized i had to do this but if you
made it this far thank you so much
you're the backbone of the channel you
guys know that i see that every time it
means the most to me if you haven't
subscribed already if this video helped
you it would mean a lot we passed the
500 mark and we're on to our next goal
uh this is you know my first 3d printing
kind of build video so hopefully you
guys enjoyed it hope you learned
something hopefully you just liked
seeing that awesome sword being made uh
if you want me to do more stuff and more
projects that i'm working on i think you
might have seen a green ranger helmet in
there or you know we could do some other
different things i've got the white
ranger on the the printer right now so
we could do more of these if you want
them just let me know but thank you guys
so much for watching the video uh and i
had a great time doing it i love you
guys and i'll catch you in the next one peace
peace [Music]
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