This content demonstrates a practical technique for smoothing large areas of PLA 3D prints using a power sander, significantly reducing post-processing time compared to manual sanding.
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hey guys what's up well for my channel
finance prank today we're gonna go over
something that seems really click
vailable and there seem to be a lot of
controversy over just misinformation PLA
smoothing this is post-processing after
you get your print off the bed and
hopefully today I can show you a little
technique that I've found you know just
kind of cross utilized for another hobby
into getting smooth PLA prints this
won't work for really tiny recesses in
small details that you're still gonna
probably ought to use sandpaper for but
hopefully this process will teach you
how to smooth very large areas so you
can take something like this like a
fresh Walker and helmet and get
something like this that actually shines
in a smooth
there's no bondo or body filler or wood
filler anywhere on this this is all
sanded and painted and as you can see I
got pretty smooth and I'm happy with
I've not a lot of questions on how long
did that take the sand especially for
the whole suit oh my god you must have
you know gone mad sanding I didn't know
I only spent a couple hours sanding the
entire suit saying this probably took
five to ten minutes tops
so let's go hop into the garage I'll
bring the the fresh helmet and we'll get
started so guys what's the secret this
is a twenty dollar Black & Decker palm
sander you can get at Home Depot Walmart
it doesn't need to be black and decker
it to be anything and I have eighty grit
sandpaper on it now you'll see a lot of
people say don't use palm sander is on
PLA you'll overheat it you'll burn it go
melt it and that's very true so I have a
scrap piece of PLA from a bad project
that actually has pretty bad leather
lines and I'm going to show you what
happens if you start to see it one spot
too long or you're not careful what it
looks like when you start to burn and
when you want to back off if you start
to burn it there are ways to fix it and
kind of stop it's not the end of the
world but you need to be able to look
for the signs if appeal they starts to
melt and then we'll jump into the helmet
and we'll start sanding that that's it
so let's get started so as anything with
anything electric or you know motorized
make sure you wear you know your handy
dandy safety glasses because you don't
want anything bad to happen to your eyes
so turn on your palm sander and just
just sit on the part um always practice
try this with a scrap piece first you
can actually see the low poly count on
this model it was for a another Ironman
suit that I kind of ditched the project
on because I wasn't a fan of it anyway
so let's get started get your palm
sander be in a nice safe environment
have your glasses on [Music]
[Music]
so anytime I start this palm sander up
there's probably to be a little bit of a
time skip or a time jump because it's
just loud but right here you can already
start to see it revealing a layer line I
probably couldn't even see to begin with
right there but it's already smooth so
if I want to keep cutting down that
layer line don't sit in the same spot
you're gonna want to move around and
start smoothing it out [Music]
[Music]
well it looks like I started to burn a
spot so if you look right here it's kind
of actually still a little soft you'll
be able to see that that's actually a
spot of a sanding that was starting to
get too hot and start to melt and burned
a little bit it'll start to get a little
bit darker than the rest of the material
dependent in this varies on what color
are using but this black reveals itself
very easily when you start to sit in a
spot too long so just be careful to look
for that kind of burning look and move
around on the print as you can see up
here all the layer lines were pretty
much almost gone and however much time
you want to take with this is the
results you'll get so that's a good
little scrap piece I know this works so
this is with 80 grit but if you actually
run my finger over and feel it it's
still a little rough so what I'll do is
after I cut up this I'll go and grab
something like 200 grit sandpaper and
just real sit knock it down
that's it and then this is ready for
priming so let's move on to the helmet
isn't she a beaut it's like I said I
haven't done any sanding on this yet
it's fresh off the printer now I'm not
gonna sit here and tell you how to put
in all your settings how to get smooth
prints that's something you're gonna
have there's too many tutorials on that
and this is not one of them so dial in
your print settings but they don't even
need to be this smooth to get good
sanding results I left my Z seen here I
don't really care where that ends up I
think I have it on random the edges you
want to clean them up a little bit with
a file I cleaned up the eyes because
obviously the palm sander can't get in
there but this is ready to sand so I'm
gonna do half the mass and show you the
results so [Music]
so that's half the mass have done kinda
let's say Deathstroke actually I want to
see what that looks like in the mask I
bet so it's still a little rough I
couldn't get into the really small spots
but like I said grab some like 200 grit
really thin sandpaper this is 180 you'll
be able to feel it you'll feel little
bits raised up and just tuck them down
you'll see actually the color change to
this lets you know that you're still
sanding the right spot this is still a
little bit darker and as ice and it gets
a little bit lighter
all I'm doing is kind of knocking down
the little areas that got raised up wall
of expanding this would be a good time
to go and make sure you touching the
little delay since we I wish you guys
could feel what this feels like right
now might be able to hear a little bit
of scratching if you can differentiate
what that is
that's my thang my finger down grabbing
all the little airlines and this is a
small pretty smooth print and I still
have a little bit I think see my see
seemed kind of just completely
disappeared and this half of the mask is
ready for priming and if you prime this
versus this you'll the layer lines will
start to see in this one this one you
shouldn't see any now like I said
however much trying to take with this is
are the results you're going to get
spend time in this process I've gotten
pretty good with the sander you can try
different grits I think I have a 16 to
40 grit over there they're a little
harsh I found that this 80 grit is
pretty perfect and as you can see just
also be careful near on the edges so
what you'll get is if you sit in on that
edge too long it will start to kind of
melt over and lose that little bit of
definition be careful there it's very
very easily remedied I'll be learning
some pitch changes back over it and
it'll smooth that whole it edge back out
so just you know practice practice
practice practice it'll make this a lot
easier and if you start getting it down
it'll save you so much time on the back
end so I'm gonna go ahead I'm gonna do
the rest of the mask and then I'm gonna
do the rest of the helmet and we'll see
what it looks like [Music]
[Music]
and don't so that's it guys
this is the fully sanded helmet I think
it came out great so I haven't glued
anything together yet because I'm still
going to go back and touch up some of
the lines that just got messed up in the
printing process make sure they're
deeper and kind of a thicker more
prominent line so when it's painted and
everything that's built up you'll be
able to see them much better one thing I
didn't really talk about in the
beginning was where your supports are so
on this back of this helmet to save time
I don't print helmets straight up like
this I'll print them in - I'll orient
them for the least amount of material
and the best time so what I did for the
back skull was just stood it up now what
that did is it left adjust a little bit
of chunks missing when I remove the
supports which I'm fine with
so go get yourself something like this a
little simple wood filler and you'll be
able to touch in these little lines a
lot of this will disappear once I prime
it but there's just like one or two very
deep recesses I wasn't able to sand out
throw some wood filler over this and
smooth it out depending how you orient
your prints you might not need to do
this at all the helmet I showed you the
beginning of the video I oriented in
another way I didn't there was no marks
or issues like this all this was
actually inside the skull cap and I
didn't even need to touch it up but for
this one I'm going to throw just a
little bit of wood filler back here it
drives quicksands super easy and it
paints great but aside from that this
thing is all ready to be glued together
and that would be a separate video on
how I bond infuse PLA so good and then
we'll move on to painting and everything
else so that's this mask done ready to
go if you have any comments questions
concerns about anything you saw you want
to know why I did this or didn't do that
or maybe you have a better suggestion on
how to smooth things out even quicker
let me know message me on Instagram it's
easier to talk and thanks a lot [Music]
[Music] you
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